Nā kānana UV ma ka mākeke mālama lā

ʻO ka mālama ʻana i ka lā, a me ka mālama ʻana i ka lā, ʻo ia kekahi o nānā ʻāpana ulu wikiwiki o ka mākeke mālama pilikino.Eia kekahi, ua hoʻokomo ʻia ka pale UV i nā huahana hoʻohana i kēlā me kēia lā (no ka laʻana, nā huahana mālama ʻili maka a me nā mea hoʻonaninani hoʻonaninani), ʻoiai ʻoi aku ka ʻike o nā mea kūʻai aku ʻaʻole pili ka pono e pale iā lākou iho mai ka lā i kahi hoʻomaha kahakai. .

ʻO ka mea hana mālama lā i kēia lāpono e hoʻokō i nā kūlana palekana SPF kiʻekiʻe a me nā kūlana palekana UVA, ʻoiai e hana ana i nā huahana nani e hoʻoikaika i ka hoʻokō ʻana o nā mea kūʻai aku, a me ke kumu kūʻai kūpono e hiki ke kūʻai ʻia i nā manawa hoʻokele waiwai.

Nā kānana UV ma ka mākeke mālama lā

ʻO ka maikaʻi a me ka nani ke hilinaʻi nei kekahi i kekahi; ʻo ka hoʻonui ʻana i ka pono o nā mea hana i hoʻohana ʻia e hiki ai i nā huahana SPF kiʻekiʻe ke hana me nā pae liʻiliʻi o nā kānana UV. Hāʻawi kēia i ke kūʻokoʻa o ka formulator e hoʻonui i ka manaʻo o ka ʻili. ʻO ka mea ʻē aʻe, paipai nā huahana maikaʻi i nā mea kūʻai aku e hoʻopili i nā huahana hou aʻe a no laila e hoʻokokoke aku i ka SPF i kapa ʻia.

ʻO nā ʻano hana e noʻonoʻo ai i ke koho ʻana i nā kānana UV no nā ʻano hoʻonaninani
• Ka palekana no ka hui hoʻohana hope- Ua hoʻāʻo nui ʻia nā kānana UV āpau e hōʻoia i ka palekana maoli no ka noi topical; akā naʻe, loaʻa paha i kekahi poʻe maʻi maʻi i nā ʻano kānana UV.

• ka pono SPF- Aia kēia ma muli o ka lōʻihi o ka hawewe o ka nui o ka absorbance, ka nui o ka absorbance, a me ka laulā o ka spectrum absorbance.

• Ka mana ākea ākea / UVA palekana- Pono nā hana pale lā o kēia wā e hoʻokō i kekahi mau kūlana pale UVA, akā ʻo ka mea i maopopo ʻole ʻia ʻo ia ka pale ʻana o UVA i hāʻawi i ka SPF.

• Ka hopena i ka manaʻo o ka ʻili- Loaʻa nā hopena like ʻole o nā kānana UV i ka manaʻo o ka ʻili; no ka laʻana, hiki i kekahi mau kānana UV wai ke manaʻo "paʻa" a "kaumaha" ma ka ʻili, ʻoiai nā kānana hiki ke hoʻoheheʻe wai i ka ʻili maloʻo.

• ʻO ke ʻano ma ka ʻili- Hiki i nā kānana inorganic a me nā ʻāpana organik ke hana keʻokeʻo ma ka ʻili ke hoʻohana ʻia ma nā ʻano kiʻekiʻe; ʻAʻole makemake ʻia kēia, akā i kekahi mau noi (e like me ka mālama ʻana i ka lā pēpē) hiki ke ʻike ʻia he pōmaikaʻi.

• Paʻi kiʻi- Nui nā kānana UV kūlohelohe i ka pohō i ka ʻike ʻana i ka UV, no laila e hōʻemi ana i ko lākou pono; akā hiki i nā kānana ʻē aʻe ke kōkua i ka hoʻopaʻa ʻana i kēia mau kānana "photo-labile" a hōʻemi a pale paha i ka pala.

• Kūleʻa wai- ʻO ka hoʻokomo ʻana i nā kānana UV i hoʻokumu ʻia i ka wai ma ka ʻaoʻao o nā kānana i hoʻopaʻa ʻia i ka ʻaila e hāʻawi pinepine i ka hoʻoikaika nui i ka SPF, akā hiki ke paʻakikī i ka loaʻa ʻana o ka wai-kūʻē.
» E nānā i nā mea kūʻai aku a me nā mea hoʻolako mālama lā i nā mea kūʻai aku i loko o ka waihona ʻikepili Cosmetics

Kemimi kānana UV

Hoʻokaʻawale ʻia nā mea pale lā ma ke ʻano he pale lā kūlohelohe a i ʻole nā ​​​​sunscreens inorganic. Hoʻopili ikaika ʻia nā pale lā kūlohelohe i nā lōʻihi hawewe kikoʻī a ʻike ʻia i ka mālamalama ʻike ʻia. Hoʻohana ʻia nā pale lā inorganic ma ka hoʻohālikelike ʻana a i ʻole ka hoʻopuehu ʻana i ka radiation UV.

E aʻo hohonu kākou e pili ana iā lākou:

Nā pale lā kino

Nā kānana UV ma ka Mākeke mālama Lā1

Ua ʻike ʻia nā sunscreens organikpale lā kemika. Aia kēia mau mea i nā molekala (carbon-based) e hana ana ma ke ʻano he sunscreens ma o ka lawe ʻana i ka radiation UV a hoʻololi iā ia i ka ikehu wela.

Nā ikaika a me nā nāwaliwali o nā pale lā kino

Nā ikaika

Nawaliwali

ʻO ka nani nani - ʻo ka hapa nui o nā kānana organik, he wai a i ʻole nā ​​​​mea paʻa hiki ke hoʻoheheʻe ʻia, ʻaʻole e waiho i ke koena ʻike ʻia ma ka ʻili o ka ʻili ma hope o ka hoʻohana ʻana mai kahi hana.

ʻAno haiki - pale wale ka nui ma luna o ka laulā haiki

Hoʻomaopopo maikaʻi ʻia nā mea kūlohelohe kuʻuna e nā mea hana

Pono nā "Cocktails" no ka SPF kiʻekiʻe

ʻO ka maikaʻi maikaʻi ma nā haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa

Hiki ke paʻakikī ke hoʻoheheʻe a mālama ʻia i kekahi ʻano paʻa

Nā nīnau e pili ana i ka palekana, ka huhū a me ka hopena o ke kaiapuni

ʻO kekahi mau kānana organik he kiʻi paʻa ʻole

Nā hoʻohana ʻana i nā mea pale lā
Hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia nā kānana organik i nā huahana mālama lā / UV pale akā ʻaʻole kūpono i nā huahana no nā pēpē a i ʻole ka ʻili koʻikoʻi ma muli o ka hiki ke loaʻa nā hopena maʻi i nā poʻe koʻikoʻi. ʻAʻole kūpono lākou no nā huahana e hana ana i nā koi "kūlohelohe" a i ʻole "organic" no ka mea, he mau kemika synthetic lākou a pau.
Nā kānana UV Organic: Nā ʻano kemika

PABA (para-amino benzoic acid) derivatives
• Laʻana: Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA
• nā kānana UVB
• Kakaʻikahi ka hoʻohana ʻana i kēia mau lā ma muli o nā pilikia palekana

Salicylates
• Nā Laʻana: Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Homosalate
• nā kānana UVB
• Ke kumukuai haahaa
• Haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa e hoʻohālikelike ʻia me ka hapa nui o nā kānana ʻē aʻe

Kinamaka
• Nā Laʻana: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Iso-amyl Methoxycinnamate, Octocrylene
• Nā kānana UVB maikaʻi loa
• He kiʻi paʻi kiʻi ʻo Octocrylene a kōkua i ka hoʻopaʻa paʻi kiʻi i nā kānana UV ʻē aʻe, akā ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o nā cinnamates ʻē aʻe.

Nā Benzophenones
• Nā Laʻana: Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4
• Hāʻawi i ka UVB a me ka UVA absorption
• Haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa akā kōkua i ka hoʻonui ʻana i ka SPF i hui pū ʻia me nā kānana ʻē aʻe
• ʻAʻole hoʻohana ʻia ʻo Benzophenone-3 ma ʻEulopa i kēia mau lā ma muli o nā pilikia palekana

ʻO ka triazine a me ka triazole derivatives
• Nā Laʻana: Ethylhexyl triazone, bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
• ʻO ka maikaʻi loa
• He mau kānana UVB kekahi, hāʻawi kekahi i ka pale ākea UVA/UVB
• maikaʻi loa photostability
• Uku

ʻO nā mea i loaʻa iā Dibenzoyl
• Nā Laʻana: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDM), Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB)
• ʻO nā mea hoʻopau UVA maikaʻi loa
• ʻAʻole maikaʻi nā kiʻi paʻi kiʻi ʻo BMDM, akā ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka DHHB

Benzimidazole sulfonic acid derivatives
• Nā Laʻana: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (PBSA), Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (DPDT)
• Hiki ke hoʻoheheʻe ʻia i ka wai (ke hoʻokaʻawale ʻia me kahi kumu kūpono)
• ʻO PBSA ka kānana UVB; ʻO DPDT kahi kānana UVA
• Hōʻike pinepine i nā synergies me nā kānana hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia i ka hui

Nā huaʻōlelo Camphor
• Laʻana: 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor
• kānana UVB
• Kakaʻikahi ka hoʻohana ʻana i kēia mau lā ma muli o nā pilikia palekana

Anthranilates
• Laʻana: Menthyl anthranilate
• Nā kānana UVA
• Haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa
• ʻAʻole ʻae ʻia ma ʻEulopa

Polysilicone-15
• Silicone polymer me nā chromophores ma nā kaulahao ʻaoʻao
• kānana UVB

Nā pale lā ʻole

Ua ʻike ʻia kēia mau sunscreens i nā sunscreens kino. Aia kēia mau mea i nā ʻāpana inorganic e hana ana ma ke ʻano he pale lā ma o ka hoʻomoʻa ʻana a me ka hoʻopuehu ʻana i ka radiation UV. Loaʻa nā pale lā inorganic ma ke ʻano he pauka maloʻo a i ʻole ka hoʻopuehu ʻana.

ʻO nā kānana UV ma ka mākeke mālama lā2

ʻO nā pale lā inorganic nā ikaika a me nā nāwaliwali

Nā ikaika

Nawaliwali

Palekana / ʻaʻole hoʻonāukiuki

ʻO ka ʻike ʻana i nā aesthetics maikaʻi ʻole (ka ʻili a me ke keʻokeʻo ma ka ʻili)

Laulā laula

Hiki ke paʻakikī ke hoʻopili ʻana i nā pauka

Hiki ke hoʻokō ʻia ka SPF kiʻekiʻe (30+) me hoʻokahi mea hana (TiO2)

Ua hoʻopaʻa ʻia nā inorganics i ka hoʻopaʻapaʻa nano

He maʻalahi ka hoʻopili ʻana i nā dispersion

Kiʻi kiʻi

Nā mea hoʻohana pale lā ʻole
Ua kūpono nā pale lā inorganic no nā noi pale UV koe wale nō nā mea hoʻoheheʻe a i ʻole nā ​​aerosol sprays. Ua kūpono loa ia no ka mālama ʻana i ka lā pēpē, nā huahana ʻili koʻikoʻi, nā huahana e hana ana i nā koi "kūlohelohe", a me nā mea hoʻonaninani.
Nā kānana UV inorganic Nā ʻano kemika

Titanium Dioxide
• ʻO kahi kānana UVB ma mua, akā hāʻawi kekahi mau māka i ka pale UVA maikaʻi
• Loaʻa nā māka like ʻole me nā ʻāpana ʻokoʻa like ʻole, nā uhi etc.
• Hāʻule ka hapa nui o nā māka i ke aupuni o nā nanoparticles
• ʻO nā ʻāpana liʻiliʻi liʻiliʻi loa i ka ʻili akā hāʻawi i ka pale UVA liʻiliʻi; ʻOi aku ka nui o ka pale UVA akā ʻoi aku ka keʻokeʻo ma ka ʻili

Zinc Oxide
• ʻO kahi kānana UVA mua; ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka SPF ma mua o TiO2, akā hāʻawi i ka pale ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi ma mua o TiO2 ma ka ʻāpana "UVA-I" lōʻihi.
• Loaʻa nā māka like ʻole me nā ʻāpana ʻokoʻa like ʻole, nā uhi etc.
• Hāʻule ka hapa nui o nā māka i ke aupuni o nā nanoparticles

Hana / Kemika matrix

Ka helu mai -5 a +5:
-5: hopena maikaʻi ʻole nui | 0: ʻaʻohe hopena | +5: hopena maikaʻi nui
(E hoʻomaopopo: no ke kumukūʻai a me ka hoʻomaʻemaʻe ʻana, ʻo ka "hopena maikaʻi ʻole" ʻo ia hoʻi ke hoʻonui ʻia ke kumukūʻai a i ʻole ke keʻokeʻo.)

 

Koina

SPF

UVA
Palekana

Manaʻo ʻili

Keokeo

Paʻi kiʻi

Wai
Kūʻē

Benzophenone-3

-2

+4

+2

0

0

+3

0

Benzophenone-4

-2

+2

+2

0

0

+3

0

Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

-4

+5

+5

0

0

+4

0

Butyl Methoxy-dibenzoylmethane

-2

+2

+5

0

0

-5

0

Diethylamino Hydroxy Benzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

-4

+1

+5

0

0

+4

0

ʻO Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone

-4

+4

0

0

0

+4

0

Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimiazole Tetrasulfonate

-4

+3

+5

0

0

+3

-2

Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA

-1

+4

0

0

0

+2

0

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

-2

+4

+1

-1

0

-3

+1

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

-1

+1

0

0

0

+2

0

Ethylhexyl Triazone

-3

+4

0

0

0

+4

0

Homosalate

-1

+1

0

0

0

+2

0

Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate

-3

+4

+1

-1

0

-2

+1

Menthyl Anthranilate

-3

+1

+2

0

0

-1

0

4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor

-3

+3

0

0

0

-1

0

Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol

-5

+4

+5

-1

-2

+4

-1

Octocrylene

-3

+3

+1

-2

0

+5

0

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid

-2

+4

0

0

0

+3

-2

Polysilicone-15

-4

+1

0

+1

0

+3

+2

Tris-biphenyl Triazine

-5

+5

+3

-1

-2

+3

-1

ʻO ka Titanium Dioxide - ka pae ʻālohilohi

-3

+5

+2

-1

0

+4

0

ʻO Titanium Dioxide - ka pae ākea ākea

-3

+5

+4

-2

-3

+4

0

Zinc Oxide

-3

+2

+4

-2

-1

+4

0

Nā mea e pili ana i ka hana o nā kānana UV

ʻOkoʻa ka ʻano hana o ka titanium dioxide a me ka zinc oxide ma muli o nā waiwai pākahi o ka papa kikoʻī i hoʻohana ʻia, e laʻa. ka uhi ʻana, ke ʻano kino (ka pauka, ka hoʻopuehu ʻana i ka ʻaila, ka hoʻopuehu ʻana i ka wai).Pono nā mea hoʻohana e kūkākūkā me nā mea hoʻolako ma mua o ke koho ʻana i ka pae kūpono loa e hoʻokō i kā lākou mau pahuhopu hana i kā lākou ʻōnaehana hoʻonohonoho.

Hoʻopili ʻia ka maikaʻi o nā kānana UV organik hiki ke hoʻoheheʻe ʻia e ko lākou solubility i nā emollients i hoʻohana ʻia i ka hana. ʻO ka maʻamau, ʻo nā emollient polar ka mea hoʻoheheʻe maikaʻi loa no nā kānana organik.

Hoʻopili koʻikoʻi ʻia ka hana o nā kānana UV a pau e ke ʻano rheological o ka hoʻokumu ʻana a me kona hiki ke hana i kahi kiʻiʻoniʻoni like ʻole ma ka ʻili. ʻO ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā kiʻiʻoniʻoni kūpono a me nā mea hoʻohui rheological e kōkua pinepine i ka hoʻomaikaʻi ʻana i ka pono o nā kānana.
ʻO ka hui ʻana o nā kānana UV (synergies)

Nui nā hui o nā kānana UV e hōʻike ana i nā synergies. Loaʻa nā hopena synergistic maikaʻi loa ma ka hoʻohui ʻana i nā kānana e hoʻokō i kekahi i kekahi ma kekahi ʻano, no ka laʻana: -
• Hoʻohui i nā kānana hiki ke hoʻoheheʻe ʻia i ka ʻaila (a i ʻole ka ʻaila i hoʻopuehu ʻia) me nā kānana hiki ke hoʻoheheʻe ʻia i ka wai.
• Hoʻohui i nā kānana UVA me nā kānana UVB
• Hoʻohui i nā kānana inorganic me nā kānana organik

Aia kekahi mau hui pū ʻana e hiki ke hoʻohua mai i nā pono ʻē aʻe, no ka laʻana, ua ʻike nui ʻia e kōkua ka octocrylene i ke kiʻi-hoʻopaʻa i kekahi mau kānana kiʻi-labile e like me butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.

Eia naʻe, pono e noʻonoʻo kekahi i ka waiwai naʻauao ma kēia wahi. Nui nā patent e uhi ana i nā hui pū ʻana o nā kānana UV a ua ʻōlelo ʻia nā mea hoʻopuka e nānā mau i ka hui ʻana a lākou i manaʻo ai e hoʻohana ʻaʻole ia e hōʻino i nā patent ʻaoʻao ʻekolu.

E koho i ka kānana UV kūpono no kāu ʻano hoʻonaninani

E kōkua nā ʻanuʻu aʻe iā ʻoe e koho i ka kānana UV kūpono no kāu hoʻolālā hoʻonaninani:
1. E hoʻonohonoho i nā pahuhopu akaka no ka hana, nā waiwai nani a me nā koi i manaʻo ʻia no ka hoʻokumu ʻana.
2. E nānā i nā kānana i ʻae ʻia no ka mākeke i manaʻo ʻia.
3. Inā loaʻa iā ʻoe kahi chassis formulation kikoʻī āu e makemake ai e hoʻohana, e noʻonoʻo i nā kānana e kūpono me kēlā chassis. Eia nō naʻe, inā hiki, ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ke koho mua ʻana i nā kānana a hoʻolālā i ka hoʻolālā a puni lākou. He ʻoiaʻiʻo loa kēia me nā kānana organik inorganic a i ʻole particulate.
4. E hoʻohana i ka ʻōlelo aʻo mai nā mea hoʻolako a/a i ʻole nā ​​mea hana wānana e like me ka BASF Sunscreen Simulator e ʻike i nā hui e pono ai.e hoʻokō i ka SPF i manaʻo ʻiaa me nā pahuhopu UVA.

A laila hiki ke ho'āʻo ʻia kēia mau hui ʻana ma nā ʻano hoʻohālike. Pono nā ʻano hoʻokolohua in-vitro SPF a me UVA i kēia manawa e hōʻike i nā hui e hāʻawi i nā hopena maikaʻi loa ma ke ʻano o ka hana - hiki ke hōʻiliʻili ʻia nā ʻike hou aʻe e pili ana i ka noi, ka wehewehe ʻana a me nā palena o kēia mau hoʻāʻo me ka papahana e-training SpecialChem.UVA/SPF: E hoʻonui ana i kāu mau kaʻina hoʻāʻo

ʻO nā hopena hoʻāʻo, me nā hopena o nā hoʻokolohua ʻē aʻe a me nā loiloi (e laʻa. stability, preservative efficacy, skin feel), hiki i ka mea hoʻopuka ke koho i nā koho maikaʻi loa a alakaʻi pū i ka hoʻomohala hou ʻana o ka (s).


Ka manawa hoʻouna: Jan-03-2021